How To Reduce Tweeter Volume – Everything You Need To Know!

Trying to get those tweeters under control? It can be a frustrating mess full of complicated math and wasted time & money.

Not to worry, though! I’ve designed & built my own tweeter volume circuits many times and I’ll show you how too.

In this article, I’ll show you how to reduce tweeter volume with clear info and easy-to-follow steps.

Here’s what I’ll cover:

  • How tweeter attenuation works & what options you have
  • How to properly reduce tweeter volume without affecting speaker crossover operation & sound
  • Tweeter resistor volume diagrams & resistor value table – no math needed!
  • Choosing the right resistor types, power ratings, and values

What is tweeter attenuation?

What is tweeter attentuation diagram

Diagram showing how tweeter attenuation (tweeter volume reduction) works to bring the tweeter volume down to a level better matching other speakers like midrange speakers. A tweeter resistor network, sometimes called an L-pad, can be used to reduce the volume & power a tweeter receives.

Tweeter attenuation is the reduction of voltage & power to a tweeter to decrease its volume output. This is usually done with a resistor network with values chosen to match the expected load of a stereo, amplifier, or speaker crossover.

Tweeter resistor volume reduction circuit diagram

In this simple example, we use a single series resistor to drop the voltage seen by a tweeter. Once we figure out the resistor value needed for a given volume reduction in decibels (dB), we can add it in series to reduce the power and consequently the power the tweeter receives. This causes the volume to be lower.

For speaker systems, tweeters often are more efficient (have a higher decibel output) than other speakers. In this case, there’s a mismatch often described as being “too bright.” For example, tweeters that are mismatched to midrange or woofer full-range speakers may seem very harsh & the music will sound unnatural.

Because tweeters are smaller and work slightly differently than larger speakers like midrange or woofers, it’s not unusual for them to be too “bright” sounding.

Speaker sensitivity explained

Speakers are usually given an efficiency rating by the manufacturer which is described in decibels (dB) of volume at 1 watt of power for comparison purposes.

For example, a midrange speaker may typically be about 87dB/W while it’s not unusual to see a tweeter with 92dB/W efficiency. That’s a difference of 5 dB, and enough that your ears can hear the difference.

This means the treble frequencies (upper range of sound frequencies) in music can be overbearing and annoying, causing listener fatigue – not just sounding bad!

To correct this, we can use a tweeter attenuation circuit with resistors to reduce the decibel output of the tweeters, matching them to the other speakers and improving the sound.

To calculate speaker power, you can use the formula (Volts x Volts)/(Speaker Ohms), or (V)^2/Rspeaker as I’ve done above.

This is from Ohm’s Law for power, voltage, and resistance.

Can’t you just use an equalizer or treble setting?

EQ and treble adjustment examples diagram

Tweeter output can be really hard to adjust with some equalizers and nearly impossible to correct with most treble levels in amps or stereos. For that reason, a better way is to use a tweeter attenuation solution.

To make matters worse, while a good equalizer (EQ) can help by letting you reduce tweeter volume across its output range, many treble controls in car or home stereos can only adjust a very limited range of sound and won’t fix the entire range of tweeter volume.

Not only that but if there’s a really big difference in sound levels between the speakers, the EQ or treble control might not have enough adjustment anyway and you’ll never get it quite right.

Good equalizers aren’t cheap and they take time to set up properly

While it’s true that a very good 31 band equalizer gives you a lot of adjustment range, not many have those handy and they can be expensive to buy. It also takes a lot of time to adjust a complex equalizer.

You’ll also need a lot of time & effort for trial and error if you’re really adjusting your sound the right way. Some people use a calibrated microphone & measurement software to tune a sound system for best results – and none of that is cheap.

It’s much easier to just reduce the tweeter volume across its entire sound range instead.

Series resistors vs L-pads for tweeter volume

Series vs L pad tweeter resistor networks explained diagrams

Resistor diagrams shown: Total resistance values for 8 & 4 ohm car & home stereos with a -3dB tweeter attenuation example. Series resistors are more simple but can’t be used in as many applications, while L-pad (series-parallel) networks work in any situation.

It’s easy enough to use a single resistor in series with a car or home audio tweeter for getting your tweeter volume levels under control. The problem is that without using an L-pad circuit, your amplifier or stereo will see a different value of speaker load for the tweeter side.

That’s not a problem if you’re directly driving a speaker with no inline speaker crossover, as there’s nothing to be affected by a higher speaker impedance (Ohms load). The problem comes when you add a speaker crossover – and that’s almost always the case when using tweeters and 2-way speaker systems.

Speaker crossovers are designed to work with a fixed speaker resistance. Change that, and you’ll mess up the crossover frequencies and the sound, too. Not what we want at all!

L-pads let you keep your sound AND control your tweeters

But how can we add resistors to drop tweeter volume but still keep the crossover working right? The answer is using an L-pad resistor network.

L-pad resistor networks are preferred over just using a series resistor because the total speaker impedance (Ohms) will be the same as what the amplifier, stereo, or crossover expects to sees. These networks use a series and parallel resistor design that add up to a total resistance that’s the same as the tweeter.

They’re a bit more complicated, though. You have to do more advanced math & algebra to figure out the resistors needed based on the decibel amount you’d like to reduce the tweeter by. For example, an L-pad resistor calculator like this can let you do it if you don’t mind the complicated stuff.

Keep reading, however, as I’ll show you an easier way.

Using an L-pad for tweeter volume

What is a tweeter L-pad explained diagram

And L-pad is a ready-made part that lets you easily reduce tweeter volume. With it you can tailor the tweeter level to your liking instead of using fixed decibel levels like with a resistor network.

L-pads are an affordable and really simple way to reduce tweeter volume. An adjustable speaker L-pad is simply an adjustable resistor network version like the fixed value ones I’ll explain later.

Unlike fixed resistors, they’re designed to let you adjust the tweeter level over a range as they use potentiometers which are simply adjustable resistors. As the output is adjusted the total resistance (impedance, as it’s called for speakers) that the stereo or amplifiers see are kept the same. That’s nearly always 8 ohms.

That way if you’re using speaker crossovers, which are designed for a specific speaker Ohms load, the sound won’t be affected – only the volume. As you decrease the tweeter volume output the internal resistance is increased and less voltage reaches the tweeter, causing the volume to drop.

Things to know before buying an L-pad

Some models are single-channel and you’ll need one for each tweeter while stereo models let you control 2 tweeters at once. They’re also available in different power ratings as well. 

However, while they’re a great solution, L-pads are nearly always only available for 8 ohm home stereo tweeters, not 4 ohm car tweeters.

How to wire a tweeter L pad

How to wire a tweeter L-pad diagram

Tweeter L-pads are almost always connected the same way but always double-check your instructions & labels if provided. To connect a tweeter to an L-pad you’ll do the following:

  • Connect the tweeter positive wire to the L-pad tweeter output (+) terminal
  • Connect the tweeter negative wire to the L-pad common ground (-) terminal
  • Connect the amp/crossover positive output to the L-pad positive input terminal
  • Connect the L-pad ground terminal to the negative amp or crossover terminal

The reason why it’s nearly always connected the same way is that most L-pads are designed the same. The details (like wiring pins or terminals) may be a little different, but normally that’s the only difference.

Some models require soldering while others offer a screw terminal that makes the work easier. In either case, always be sure to use an L-pad that has enough power rating for the speaker or tweeter you’re using it with.

A good rule of thumb is to pick one with at least 1/2 of the power ratings (Watts) of the tweeter you’re using. Always use the RMS power rating, not the “peak” or “maximum” as those are misleading and not what you need.

How to reduce tweeter volume with resistors (steps & diagram)

How to make a tweeter L-pad diagram instructions

It’s pretty easy to reduce tweeter volume with resistors. To do so, use the instructions in the diagram I’ve provided above. There are only a few steps you’ll need:

  1. Find the resistors you need based on the tweeter impedance (Ohms) and the tweeter volume, in decibels, you want to decrease. Use my provided chart (easy) to look up the series & parallel or calculate them yourself (much harder!)
  2. Buy power resistors needed. Resistors can be combined using different values in order to help you make the best of limited options. I recommend using 25W minimum resistors, although you can get by with 15W each if you’re using multiple resistors.
  3. Connect the resistors using a reliable connection as shown in the diagram. I recommend using crimp connectors or solder. To prevent short circuits, wrap exposed resistor leads with electrical or use heat shrink tubing.

How big of a resistor do you need with a tweeter?

Audio power resistor examples

Examples of power resistors that work fine for tweeter attenuation use. You’ll usually find the wire-wound type but also sometimes the metal chassis form, too. Both work great and can handle much more power than standard electronic use resistors.

Tweeters need resistors with sufficient power ratings in order to handle the heat they’ll build up since they reduce volume by “blocking” (reducing) power sent to the tweeter.

As a general rule, if using a single resistor for the series or parallel part of an L-pad circuit, use one at least 1/2 the power rating of the tweeter or power output of your amp you plan to use. For average use, a 25W resistor works well.

If you’re combining resistors in order to get the resistance you need, you could also use 15W rated parts. Those are commonly found when shopping too. 

Example of standard electronic axial resistor

Standard resistors like this are used for electronics and aren’t ok for using with tweeters. They’re not available in power rating styles that can handle audio power levels. Most are only 1/8W to 1/2W at most.

Don’t use standard electronics resistors, however, as they’re not designed to handle the power seen from an amplifier for speaker systems. It’s possible for them to burn up due to the extreme heat they can build up.

Which wire does the resistor go to on a tweeter?

Resistors aren’t polarized – either wire (lead) can go towards the tweeter, so don’t worry. That’s different from components like diodes and LEDs which have a single direction of current flow and have to be wired a specific way.

Where to buy the parts + keeping costs low

Image showing online retailer selection of audio resistors

There are some great places to buy audio resistors online if you’re located in the United States. If you’re not, you should still be able to find suppliers of electronic components including audio power resistors. You’ll get the best deal and keep a budget spending limit if you shop carefully.

Unfortunately, the days of being able to go down to your local Radio Shack and buy parts are long gone, at least for most of us here in the USA. To make matters worse, Fry’s Electronics, an electronics retailer, seems to be in terrible business condition and closing stores, in fact.

(Note that you might be able to find enough resistors at Fry’s or another local retailer if you’re lucky). 

Normally, however, unless it’s urgent I buy muy tweeter resistors and resistors for building speaker crossovers from one of a few places:

  • PartsExpress.com – A great company with a nice selection of affordable parts, speakers, audio electronics, and much more. Recommended! (I’ve bought tweeter resistors there several times)
  • Ebay – Not always great, but for typical resistor values it’s possible to get a good deal on a multi-pack set of resistors from a USA supplier.
  • Amazon.com – Ok, depending on the supplier. Power resistors at Amazon are affordable and some but not all are USA-based sellers.

In all cases, I would recommend starting with PartsExpress.com’s resistor selection here.

One of my UK readers mentioned he found some for his project from BlueAran.co.uk.

How much do tweeter resistors cost?

You can expect to pay anywhere from around $.80 each to about $1 each when priced affordably, or around $4-$5 for a pair or for 4 in some cases.

25W resistors do cost slightly more than their lower power counterparts, but not by too much. Usually, though, they’re either sold in singles or pairs while it can be easier to find smaller power rated ones in sets of 4 or 5.

Where to use tweeter volume resistors with crossovers

Where to use tweeter resistors with crossovers diagram

When using a resistor network to reduce tweeter volume & crossovers are used, it’s super-important to use them in the right place.

As I mentioned earlier, it’s very important to use tweeter resistor networks (L-pads) in the right place.

Crossovers are designed to work based off of the speaker load connected to them, and because of this, changing that amount can have a big impact on how they work (and how your speakers sound, too).

For example, if you’re using a car speaker crossover designed for 4 ohm speakers and insert a single resistor (let’s say a 4 ohm, for example) to reduce tweeter volume, the crossover frequency will change radically. It would go up 2x as high in fact in this example.

L-pads & L-pad resistor networks take this into account and create the same resistance so the crossover can work as expected. However, it’s also important to use it properly.

Remember that you should always use an L-pad or resistor network between the speaker crossover and the tweeter.

Additional reading + if you have questions

Want to learn more about speaker topics? Here are some other great articles I’ve created to help:

Have questions about tweeters and reducing their volume? Feel free to leave a comment below or send me a message.

Your comments are welcome!

  1. Hi Marty,

    The first time I read this article I said this is what I need. I have had difficulties going through audio forums because the discussions can be very technical at times for me. This article just made it easier for me to understand. I still come back to this article every time I need help & reminder.

    I believe it is very helpful most specially for people like me who are beginners in the audiophile hobby and are not very technical. Thank you very much for creating this and for responding to my emails as well.

    I hope you continue with this and more power to you. Please do take care & stay safe always.

    Reply
  2. Congratulations, excellent article. I read somewhere that I can use an 8-ohm stereo L-pad to control a single 4-ohm tweeter. How would you make the connections?

    Reply
    • Hello Flavio. In that case I believe you’d tie both tweeter outputs together and then connect it to the tweeter as you normally would. However, I’d recommend instead using an 8 ohm L-pad like you normally would by adding a 4 ohm resistor (of sufficient power rating) in series with the tweeter.

      You’ll start with a 3dB drop already, but that’s a tiny amount. Doing it this way it’s guaranteed to work correctly plus you can use any 8 ohm L-pad you like.

      Reply
    • That’s a great question. In fact yes, it’s the same situation so you can do it the same way. As long as the resulting Ohms load is what the crossover expects, it’s fine.

      Reply
    • I did just that, I added a 10ohm resistor (because that’s all I had that was vaguely in the right ballpark) and it has made a big difference. No more overbearing mid-range!

      Reply
  3. Hi Marty,
    Exactly what I was looking for, thanks. I just put new 4 ohm tweeters in and used 14UF bass blockers 2.8khz and the tweeters are too bright. If I use the resistors do I still need the bass blockers?
    Thanks again,
    Joe

    Reply
    • Hi Joe, how’s your Monday going? :)

      To answer your question: yes, if you use resistors to drop the tweeter volume you’ll still need the crossover (“bass blocker”, which is a capacitor). Regardless of the resistors, with a tweeter, you’ll always need a crossover to prevent bass & midrange from reaching it.

      Just be sure you keep the same total Ohms load after the bass blocker so that it works as expected. If you have any questions regarding that, let me know the details of what you have and we can go from there.

      Thanks!

      Reply
      • Marty,
        Thanks for getting back so fast, Monday’s been pretty good, hope yours has been the same. First time I installed speakers, I have a 4 ohm tweeter 90db and a 4 ohm woofer 88db wired in parallel. I was going to use your suggestion of -6db. IF I use a 4 ohm 25 watt resistor for parallel and a 2 ohm 25 watt for series between the crossover and the speaker, will this work? Is the total load for the resistor considered 2 ohms because the speakers are wired in parallel?
        Thanks,
        Joe

        Reply
        • Hi Joe. Yes, that would work fine. But one thing, it’s important to correctly describe what you mean in order to be sure we’re talking about the same thing.

          The total speaker load seen by the crossover will be 4 ohms: 2Ω + (4Ω [parallel] 4Ω) = 4Ω total. So you’ll be fine to do it that way. The 4Ω resistor in parallel with the 4Ω tweeter, yes they are 2Ω together. Then the 2Ω in series brings it up to 4Ω total.

          The series tweeter is the one that drops the volume to the tweeter and the parallel one is used to help keep the total speaker load at about 4Ω so it doesn’t cause “crossover shift.”

          Reply
          • Thanks so much Marty, restores my faith in human nature when a person helps out a total stranger. Have a good night and stay safe!
            Joe

          • Hello again Marty, the resistors are on their way, thanks again for that info. If you wouldn’t mind, I’d like to pick your brain on one more speaker question. I put new speakers in my 2002 Tahoe with stock stereo system, eight speakers and one subwoofer. I got Metra GM speaker wiring harness connectors and noticed towards the end that the black and white wires on them were swapped around. I did some research and it seems if all the speakers are in reverse polarity it shouldn’t matter. The only one I didn’t use a connector on was the subwoofer since it was connected to the box. I wired it inside the box the same as the old one. Should I swap the wires around on the subwoofer, will this make a difference in sound?
            Thanks,
            Joe

          • Hi Joe. Yes, it’s fine to wire speakers in “reverse” as long as all of them are the same so you don’t end up with sound cancelling out. That’s called speakers being “out of phase.”

            In the case of the subwoofer, it likely won’t much as the subwoofer sound waves often work differently & aren’t affected as much as the main speakers. Honestly, the only way to be 100% sure is to try out reversing them and see what you think. I’m willing to bet you won’t notice a big difference, but if it’s not hard to do I would definitely check.

          • Ok cool, thanks Marty. It might be awhile but I’m sure I’ll be referring back to your diagram when I get those resistors, I’ll let you know how the tweeters sound.

  4. Hi Marty, I would like to add the L pads to the inside of my doors But like you said there are no 4 ohm L pads on the market, when you replied back to Flavio’s question about adding the 4 ohm resistor, if I was to add a 25 watt 4 ohm resistor to a 8 ohm L pad for each of my tweeters that my amp is rated for 50 watts a channel, would that work? and where do I put the resistor exactly, Thanks for the help, Carl

    Reply
    • Hi Carl.

      You can certainly do that as well, and to do so, yes a 4Ω/25W resistor would work. You’d put that in series with the tweeter after the L-pad’s tweeter output connection and before the tweeter. So you’re essentially treating the 4Ω + tweeter as one 8Ω speaker, like would normally be there.

      The difference is that since you’re already starting with a 4Ω resistor connected, you always have at least about a 6bB drop (not a lot, but something to be aware of).

      Also, I found these 50W rotary speaker volume controls at Parts Express this morning and it appears they can be used for both 4Ω or 8Ω speakers. Not particularly compact, but that’s another option in case. :)

      They sell a great assortment of power resistors, by the way.

      Reply
  5. An excellent read, thanks for it. Perhaps a stupid question: if a hi-fi speaker allows for bi-wiring, can an L-pad be applied on the treble run of incoming speaker cables, i.e. before the signal enters X-over? Thanks and keep safe in these uneasy times…

    Reply
    • Hi Martin & I’m glad you liked the article. Hmm, that will depend on the crossover’s design I believe. I believe in most cases that would work ok since we’re talking about simply reducing the input to the crossover.

      Generally though it’s better to do so on the crossover output side.

      Reply
  6. What a great article and resource this website is! Thank you very much for explaining the information on these different subjects. I’m just getting started exploring your different articles.

    I’m looking to upgrade the 2.5″ mid and 1″ tweeter in my factory Mark Levinson system in my IS350. I’ve already replaced the factory subwoofer and 6.5″ midbass with some Stereo Integrity drivers. They’re powered off of a JL RD amp and processed through a Dayton DSP. The factory mids and tweets are currently powered off of another JL RD amp. The factory mid utilizes an active HP crossover from the factory amp, but rolls off naturally because there is no LP crossover. The factory tweeter picks it up from there with a 8kHz first order HP crossover.

    Since I don’t want to run new wiring or add another processor, I’m planning on designing my own crossover for the replacement mids and tweeters. I have a set of AF GB25’s (Re: 2.3Ω, SPL: 86 dB 2.83 V/1M) that I plan on using for the mids. I’m currently shopping around for replacement tweeters. My plan is to let the mids naturally roll off just the like the OEM mids or install a inductor in series for a LP crossover. With the tweeter, I plan on installing a cap in series or design a 2nd order crossover. I’ll also need to build a L Pad resistor network to attenuate which ever tweeter I choose.

    So…my main question for you is, should I use the normal speaker impedance or Re value when calculating my L Pad and crossover figures? Also, any extra insight to my plan would be great. Thanks again!

    Reply
    • Hi Casey & thanks for your nice comments. I would definitely use a 2nd order crossover for the tweeters. Normally, you’d use the rated speaker impedance and not Re, as in use the impedance will normally be higher than Re. It sort-of sounds like the impedance of the GB25s will be closer to 3Ω than 4Ω, so if you want to be super-specific you can calculate the impedance and plot it in a graph in Excel using the inductance value if you like. (Although that’s getting really detailed!). Otherwise I’d use the manufacturer’s Ohm rating.

      In a few cases I’ve found (here and there, not as easy as it used to be) off-the-shelf 12dB/octave 2-way crossovers I could use to avoid having to build my own. However, the last few times I had to build them myself using parts from Parts Express and used some ABS enclosures. I was able to fit my tweeter L-pad resistors inside it was well.

      Really, it just depends on how far you want to go. If the natural roll-off of the mids is already pretty decent [I don’t have the freq. response graph], I think a single 1st order series inductor would be ok. Otherwise, I’d go ahead and do a 2nd order for it as well. A second reason for that is because when you use the same order for both the tweeter and mid they stay in phase, but that’s usually not noticeable unless it’s like 180° difference.

      I hope that helps!

      Reply
      • Thanks for the quick response! I took some quick measurements of the drivers outside of the vehicle. I used an extra in-line conductor that I had from my Focal ISU690 set. Not sure of the value, but it looks like I’m down 6db @ 2.1kHz with the AF GB25 (3Ω?) and down 6db @3.5kHz with the Morel CCWR254 (4Ω) that I was also considering using.

        I still need to install the mids in the doors and take some measurements. My electrical crossover probably won’t match my acoustic crossover. I learned this from tuning my full active system in my truck. Learned a lot from that build. Thought I’d learn more about passive crossovers and L Pads now, but I might be over complicating things.

        So you think I might be able to just buy some premade crossovers for my tweeters? I initially was going to go that route, but decided to dig a bit deeper into this and learn some stuff along the way. I’m all for simplicity. I was about to buy a pair of Focal crossovers, but decided not to. They were pretty nice. It has a high-pass crossover slope of 12 dB/octave. Has a switch that allows you to choose between 12 dB/octave and 6 dB/octave slopes for the low-pass crossover. The crossover point for both is 3,500 Hz. Also has a three position switch on the crossover that allows you to adjust the output level of the tweeter to -3 dB, 0 dB, or +3 dB.

        I’m guessing the driver’s Impedance Response built for the crossover would have to match pretty closely to the drivers I plan on using? Sounds like I need to pay closer attention to the Impedance Response instead of the Re value. Maybe I’m overthinking this stuff too much? lol

        BTW, the tweeter I think I have chosen is the Wavecor TW022WA01 (4 ohm, 88.5 dB @ 2.83W/1m). I might also pick up the Dayton Audio ND20FA­6 (6 ohm, 90 dB @ 1W/1m) to play with. I only have about enough room to fit a 40mm x 20mm tweeter.

        Thanks again,
        Casey

        Reply
        • Hi Casey. Regarding your comment/questions:

          1. Yes, I think you’d be ok using some good quality 2-way crossovers. Unfortunately they’re a bit harder to find than some years ago (Even Pyramid used to have some nice budget-priced ones) but there are still some out there. I’ve picked up a few from eBay, either generic-use ones or surplus ones taken from component speakers. As long as the crossover frequency is fairly close to what you need they should work well.

          I wouldn’t spend a lot of money on them, however. Even $25 will do the job very well.

          2. The impedance response isn’t usually taken into account with typical speaker crossovers, but that’s something you can add yourself if you like. As long as you use a crossover correctly matched to the speaker impedance(s), any typical crossover should work pretty well. I prefer to use a generic one because some designed with additional components for specific speakers will cause problems if I use my own speakers.

          You can still add your own Zobel network if you want to anyhow since it’s not usually dependent on the crossover. Similar for the resonant frequency impedance spike.

          3. Side note: if you use a different impedance tweeter than the midrange/woofer, be aware that they won’t have the same power level. You can see a graph of what I mean here in the case of 8 vs 4Ω speakers. (6Ω vs 4Ω won’t be as big a difference as vs 8Ω, but still will have a difference).

          You might also have a look at the Dayton Audio ND20FB-4 (4Ω) tweeters as they’re not too wide and are good for what they cost. I used them in my custom installation in my own vehicle and enjoyed them a lot. Not so easy to mount, but you can make them work.

          Hopefully that helps! :)

          Reply
          • Very cool, thanks!

            I’m currently in the process of modifying the OEM 2.5″ speaker brackets to get the GB25’s to fit. I’ll take some REW RTA measurements with and without the inductor wired in series to see how my acoustic LP response looks. I’ll then analyze that data to decide which crossover frequency/slope will work best for the tweeters and hopefully find a good, cheap aftermarket crossover to buy.

            Of course, the last step will be adjusting the tweeter output utilizing the L Pad as described in this article.

            Thanks again for all the help and sharing your knowledge. Hopefully I’ll be able to finish this project up in a couple weeks and share my results.

  7. Im an idiot… I bought an 8 ohm midrange To replace the original that is 4 ohms. So next I bought an 8 Ω resistor to run it in parallel to drop the load the crossover sees back down to 4 ohms… It is a 92 decibel midrange that I wanted to drop down to 86db… so last night I purchased 3.9 25 W resistors to run series…. sitting here now I just realised if I add those in series it’s going to bring my impedance backup to 8 ohms isn’t it?..because i looked at the 8 ohm table…im confusing myself now….1 want xover to see a 4 ohm load and drop 6db…so with the 8 ohm mid…what do i do to make it right?Do I ditch the 8 ohm resistors im using now and get 2 entirely different ones?

    Basically I’m asking which 2 resistors do I need to drop 6 dB while showing by cross over a 4 Ω load while using an 8 ohm speaker..sorry…Which in series and which in parallel?thank you ahead of time

    Reply
    • Hi Kevin, so I’ll cover the resistor/Ohms question/situation first, then a problem you’re aware of second.

      1. Yes, keep the 8Ω resistor to use in parallel and treat the midrange with a resistor in parallel as a single 4Ω speaker for simplicity’s sake. Then just use the chart for the resistor values you want as if it was simply a 4Ω speaker.

      For volume reduction, adding resistors only in series doesn’t work as a resistor attenuation network does. That requires adding the appropriate resistors in parallel to get the total speaker load we want.

      2. There’s another problem here. If you going to use an 8Ω speaker that’s replacing a 4Ω, it won’t produce power & volume at the same rate as the 4 ohm ones will, so you’ll start off with about a 3dB drop already. That’s because while the 4Ω speakers will be producing more power & volume for a given amp or receiver output than an 8Ω.

      It will technically work, but as the volume goes up there will be more of a gap between the power & sound levels of the 8 vs 4Ω speakers. You can read more about what I mean here: https://soundcertified.com/how-does-increasing-speaker-impedance-affect-db-output-power/

      If you want to keep it, just treat it like the midrange + 8Ω resistor like a single 4Ω one for the sake of keeping it simple and go from there. However, you’d be better off getting a 4Ω midrange instead of using that one.

      Reply
  8. I have an 8 ohm L pad which I want to use with a 6 ohm tweeter.will this L pad send an 8 ohm impedence to the tweeter so the crossover which Is 8 ohm configured will not have the 2.5 k crossover frequency changed.

    Reply
    • Hi Leo the way to do that is by adding a 2Ω resistor in series with the tweeter before connecting L-pad, so that you treat the 2 ohm resistor + tweeter like a single 8 ohm tweeter. You’ll have to do that anyway even without an L-pad, as if the crossover is designed for 8 ohms, the crossover frequency would shift if it sees 6 ohms instead.

      You’ll lose about 1dB I think when adding the series resistor, but that’s so small it’s not really noticeable.

      Reply
  9. WOW! What a super tutorial Marty, thank you very much! This most certainly helps me understand this situation much better. Would it be ok for me to ask your advice for a similar situation regarding a “Horn” please? Thanks, regards, Mike.

    Reply
    • Good morning, Mike. :) Sure thing. You can reach me two ways via my contact page (by email is often the best for longer discussions, pics, etc).

      Reply

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